Q&A

Costume, Makeup & Wigs

What kinds of kabuki wig are there — and does a house have wigs of its own?

ANSWER

Male roles alone are said to run to a thousand forms, fixed by rank, age and trade. At a kōjō, the Ichikawa main house is said to wear the abura-tsuki masakari and the wider line the fukuro-tsuki.

KEY POINTS

The Short Version

  • Form follows rank, age and trade: some thousand types for male roles, four hundred for female.
  • The back hair is dressed two ways: abura-tsuki, hardened with oil, and fukuro-tsuki, given volume.
  • Oil-dressed wigs carry finishes such as togidashi; even the way the sheen is raised is settled.
  • The masakari is named for the battle-axe it resembles; at a kōjō the main house and the line are said to differ.
See It

See it in a picture

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  1. daigane — the metal baseThin metal hammered to the actor's own head. The foundation.
  2. drawing the hair throughThe hair is drawn through the base — mainly human, with yak hair also said to be used.
  3. dressing the wigThe tokoyama dresses the topknot to the role's rank and age, and redresses it daily through the run.
A kabuki wig is not headgear but the character's own head. Two crafts sustain it: the wig-maker who builds it, and the tokoyama who dresses and tends it daily. The figure simplifies the process.

More on katsura

In Detail

Kabuki wigs run to a startling number of forms — some thousand for male roles, four hundred for female. This is not ornament: the wig carries the explanation of a character. Warrior or townsman, young or old, respectable wife or courtesan, well kept or fallen on hard times — all of it is declared by the shape of the topknot and the way it is dressed. From the moment the curtain opens, an audience can read a good deal of a person from the hair alone.

One axis of classification is how the back hair is dressed. For male roles the tabo comes in abura-tsuki, hardened with oil and set close, and fukuro-tsuki, given volume as it is bound up. Oil-dressed wigs carry further finishes such as togidashi, so that even the raising of the sheen is fixed as form. The same role reads differently under a different dressing: the tight oil-set carries propriety, the fuller shape a certain softness.

As to the second half of the question — whether a house has wigs of its own. There is a form called the masakari. The name comes from the shape at the temples, which resembles a masakari, a great axe; it is held to be the same style worn by the Kaga tobi, the firefighters retained by the Maeda house of Kaga. In Edo it was reckoned a dashing, manly shape.

And when that wig is worn at a kōjō — the formal address at a name-succession — the Ichikawa main house wears the abura-tsuki masakari while actors of the wider line wear the fukuro-tsuki, as the Naritaya's own site records. The same masakari, dressed two ways, marks the difference between the head house and the line. Who wears what on stage states the relations of a family outright. This is what is meant by saying a wig is not a mere covering. Such particulars differ from house to house, and cannot be described uniformly from outside.

Words Used Above

Tabo
The hair projecting at the back of the head; its dressing changes a wig's character.
Masakari
A wig shaped like a battle-axe, held to match the Kaga firefighters' style — dashing and manly.
Kaga tobi
The firefighters retained by the Maeda house of Kaga, known in Edo for their dash.